Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Kevin Thaw
Page Views: 393 total · 5/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Jan 6, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This problem is somewhat obscure but surprisingly it climbs really well if you like difficult slab boulder problems. To the right and around the corner from the featured face with a few unnamed easier problems, find an obvious 'hold' (clean looking sloping horizontal edge) to the right of the arete. It's possible to start matched on this hold with a high foot but it might be kosher to use a higher right crimp as well. In any case, rock onto the slab with difficulty and use magic feet, body english and thumb press shenanigans to move up the face. At some point it's possible to reach left to better holds or stay straight and right with a few more tenuous moves, but either way the crux is done. Height and technique dependent and as such hard to rate, but well worth it if you enjoy this kind of tomfoolery.


If looking at Junior's Achievement, go right past the featured face with a few easier climbs and around the arete. This climb starts just right of the arete either matched on an obvious clean sloping edge or, if you can reach, with left hand on the edge and right hand above it on a terrible crimp. There are several options for downclimbing, the best involving the featured face to the left and around the corner from the problem.


A few pads and a spotter.


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I have to add that I only called this V9 because the Bishop Bouldering guide does. This one seems extremely body size and technique dependent and the subjective grade will vary accordingly. Jan 7, 2013
Tim Steele
Bishop, CA.
Tim Steele   Bishop, CA.
FA was Kevin Thaw Jan 11, 2013