Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bradley White 1/2013
Page Views: 432 total · 5/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jan 5, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

This climb goes to the summit. Its quite different from the usual Rumney ice climbing lower. Here the wind and exposure to open weather can change the conditions from ice to more snow climbed.
The climb starts up a short but very hard mantle onto a snow slope. After the snow do mixed climbing up corner ramp then a snow ramp up left bypasses steep slap to the rest ledge. Here escape west and up is easily doable. Or go as I did. Traverse ascend east until reached are tool hooks on a snow ramp flake below and right of the dead tree. Go up over elongated rocks, then more rocks to snow up to top of snow filled arch. Go right to get onto the bottom of the summit ice. Step lightly up until thicker ice is reached. Finish flow to small oak trees for a belay at the summit.
Hard to get there and I would repeat the climb with its various ways to do the first pitch but it an awful approach. Don't know if I will repeat it again this year. Its the only ice up at the summit area.

Location

Approach from the east side of the summit ledge line and traverse the line west to the ice section. Direct approach would be up a terrible boulder ravine. Its to long a description to the east ledges and that is listed in Utopia area rock climbing.

Protection

Small set of stoppers or tri-cams and a couple of regular largest cams. Frozen in place blocks are crossed over and climbed up before the finish. Walk down east side of summit. Make a belay above the snow field after the start. Then a long pitch to the summit. Small regrowth oak trees to belay from at the summit.

Photos