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Festering Ice

WI4+, Ice, Alpine, 150 ft (45 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 11 votes
FA: Jeff Cristol, Doug Byerly, Mike Pennings - 1/11/92
Wyoming > Cody > S Fork Shoshone… > 2. N Facing/S Side > 3. Flying H Ranch

Description

Begin on a hollow curtain before gaining a short, steeper section that can be thin. Pull over the bulge and take a few steps up low angle ice to get to the longer, steep finish. The right side is bounded by a left-facing corner of rock.

A trail to the looker's right of the climb is used as a walk-off.

Location

Located in the gully immediately southwest of Ice Fest, behind the Flying H Ranch. Follow the drainage up to a moderate-angled chute and traverse to the climb from the left.

Protection

Screws

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View from a distance. Approach is via the chute below the ice. A short step of WI2/3 formed directly below the route, simplifying the approach. Can be turned on left.
[Hide Photo] View from a distance. Approach is via the chute below the ice. A short step of WI2/3 formed directly below the route, simplifying the approach. Can be turned on left.
Top of Ice Fest on the left, Festering Ice on the right.
[Hide Photo] Top of Ice Fest on the left, Festering Ice on the right.
March 2018 conditions
[Hide Photo] March 2018 conditions
Fat condition with a secondary curtain on left
[Hide Photo] Fat condition with a secondary curtain on left

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

mike d
Montrose, CO
  WI4+
[Hide Comment] The guidebook made us think we needed to stay on the ridge to the left. Just get in the drainage before the cliffs. We hiked up some burly debris in the chute from an avalanche which had swept the route a week or so prior.

A small cluster of trees below the ice on the left side makes a reasonable belay stance.

There is a rappel anchor on a tree at the top of the ice to the right. Mar 19, 2018