Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches
FA: Brian Leo, Douglas McCarty, Chuck Rose, Bo Stuart
Page Views: 6,732 total · 70/month
Shared By: SirTobyThe3rd M. on Jan 1, 2013 · Updates
Admins: GRK, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Potential road closures in winter. Details

Description

This route is one of the best in the Hyalite Canyon, and a must-do for any visitor capable of leading WI3+. Due to it's popularity, it attracts crowds, so getting there early is a good idea if you want to be the first in line.

First pitch: WI3+ish, is two short tiers of ice divided by about 25 feet of hiking on ice or snow. At times, the ice could be hollow, with water running under.

Second pitch: WI3-, climbs to the base of the 3rd (crux pitch).

Third pitch: The crux with WI4 rating. There is an easier ramp available that looks WI3ish. Also, other steep curtains up to WI5 can be climbed on the left. Go on till you are under the last step bellow the trees.

Fourth pitch: Has a lot of variations to top out. Choose whatever you want (WI3- to WI4ish).

Descent Options:  (See photo.)

1) You can do two 60 meter rappels climbers right of the route.  Starting on the furthest climbers right clump of trees (usually equalized with cord), rappel over the thin flow that sometimes forms in the runnel to the right of the route to a bolt anchor.  NOTE:  Please make sure no one is climbing the runnel before throwing ropes.  From the bolts, rappel to the ground.
Bolts installed Dec. 2019.

2) You can do two rappels climbers left of the route with two 70 meter ropes.  Using trees far climbers left, rappel to a bolted anchor in a solid rock slab. It is about half way (horizontally) between the treed ridge line and the climbing route. The bolts may get lightly covered with snow due to the rock being just off vertical. From here rappel to the ground.
Bolts installed Dec. 2019.

3) After topping out you can walk climbers left, and depending on snow conditions, either walk to the top of the first pitch of Avalanche Gulch, or use a tree to rappel to the top the first pitch of Avalanche Gulch.  Once there, rappel off a large dead tree.

Location

The approach takes over an hour usually. Take Hyalite Creek Trail past Amphitheater Area and continue on (you will see Fat Chance (WI3) and Thin Chance (WI4)to your left. Go past Arch Falls sign and stay on Hyalite Creek Trail for about another 0.25 miles. There will be a small creek crossing followed by an open meadow. Look for a trail cutting left and up through the trees just past this meadow. Walk up this trail for about 20-30 mins. Dribbles will be on your right. Can't miss it if you saw a photo before.

Protection

Ice screws, depending on personal skill.
Double ropes.

Photos