Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Brian Leo, Douglas McCarty, Chuck Rose, Bo Stuart
Page Views: 4,929 total · 64/month
Shared By: SirTobyThe3rd on Jan 1, 2013
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route

59 Opinions

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Access Issue: Potential road closures in winter. Details


This route is one of the best in the Hyalite Canyon, and a must do for any visitor capable to lead wi3+. Due to it's popularity it attracts crowds, so leaving early is a good idea if you want to be the first in line.

First pitch: (wi3+ish)is two short tiers of ice divided by about 25 feet of hiking on ice or snow. At times ice could be hollow with water running under.

Second Pitch: wi3- and climbs to the base of the 3rd (crux pitch).

Third pitch: the crux with wi4 rating. There is an easier ramp available that looks wi3ish. Also, other steep curtains up to wi5 can be climbed on the left. Go on till you are under the last step bellow the trees.

Fourth pitch: has a lot of variations to top out, choose whatever you want (wi3- to wi4ish).

Rapell the route if there are no people under, or if you are epicing. Otherwise walk to the left and rap Avalanche Gulch.


The approach takes over an hour usually. Take Hyalite Creek trail past amphitheater area and continue on (you will see Fat Chance (wi3) and Thin Chance (wi4)to your left. Go past Arch Falls sign and stay on Hyalite Creek trail for about another .25 miles. There will be a small creek crossing followed by an open meadow. Look for a trail cutting left and up through the trees just past this meadow. Walk up this trail for about 20-30 mins. Dribbles will be on your right, can't miss it if you saw a photo before.


Ice Screws depending on personal skill
Double ropes
Bud Martin
Bozeman, MT
Bud Martin   Bozeman, MT
As described above, pitches 1 & 2 logically link with a stretched 60. The avalanche gully raps can be done with a single 60 meter rope. So a single 60 meter rope and 3 pitches is totally possible. Jan 21, 2013
Keenan Waeschle
Bozeman, MT
Keenan Waeschle   Bozeman, MT
Please do not rappel the route unless it's midweek/night and you have the route completely to yourself.

The Avalanche Gulch descent can be quickly and safely descended with an 80 meter rope or double ropes even when there is a unstable snowpack. With an 80 or longer you can stay on rappel and or tied in for every section that is exposed to avalanching. If the danger is low the gulch can be easily descended with a single 60. Jan 27, 2014
Andrew Jesaitis
San Francisco, CA
Andrew Jesaitis   San Francisco, CA
The right hand variation of the 3rd pitch is a fun change of pace and has a distinctly alpine feel. It is an easy WI3 (R?). Continue up the snow to the right. You might be able to sling a tree at the base of the gully. An easy mixed move will bring you on to the ice. Climb the thin (and sometimes rotten smear up and to the left. Due to the thin ice, there aren't many placement possibilities so be sure to bring your stubbies! It's about a 60M pitch depending on where you build your anchors. Jan 6, 2016
brat .
Salt Lake City, UT
brat .   Salt Lake City, UT
The big tree for the last rap on the avalanche gulch descent is dead. There aren't any other readily available rap options. Just a heads up. Jan 15, 2017