Type: Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3600 ft (1091 m), Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,834 total · 20/month
Shared By: Mark Mahaney on Dec 31, 2012 · Updates
Admins: L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description Suggest change

This route begins by heading northeast from the KIA. You navigate a small a small crevasse field before gaining a slow incline which follows the base of Mt. Francis for roughly two miles northeast. You continue along the base of Mt. Franics until reaching the base of the ridge. Crux is here, just above the beta angle and is 5th class rock for 10 meters. This was the path of least resistence to gain the ridge, it's about 700 feet of 55/60 degree snow. The snow consolidation was good early in the morning, but was quite treacherous in the afternoon. Turned to sugar sand, and previously cut steps were non-exsistent due to the southern face being exposed to the sun. You follow the ridge up and to the west for about 2000 feet. It's pretty straight forward from there, we place running protection in two areas but it's really up to comfort level of the party. Few areas contain crevasses and snow bridges which will not be present later in the spring/summer

Location Suggest change

Northeast KIA 2.5 miles. To begin this climb, continue northeast throgh crevasse fields until gaining the base of the Francis Saddle. The descent is the same as the ascent. Best to do this route early in the morning so as not to be coming down in the afternoon, southern face snow does not hold up in mid-may.

Protection Suggest change

Pickets and screws.