PRINT: Rock Climb Straight Into Frantic Oblivion, New Mexico, other Southern Areas

Straight Into Frantic Oblivion

5.13d, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 0 from 0 votes
FA: Kevin Wilkinson
New Mexico > New Mexico, oth… > Last Chance Canyon > Solstice Cave

Description

Currently the hardest route at Last Chance. A difficult boulder problem starts at the horizontal roof after the 3rd bolt. After this the climbing then turns to big move endurance jugs past the chain draw section to the anchors

Location

3rd route from left side of Soltice Cave. Between Infernal Justice and It Puts The Buff On

Protection

5 bolts (need QD's)then 4 more chain perma draws to the anchor

Route Notes

I posted the rating at 13+ rather than the original 14- rating based on what Ed Strang thought of it after sending. Ed thought it was a touch harder or similar to some 13d's but easier than Zulu (5.14a) at Rifle.
The next day as John Gogas watched 14 year old Ben Hanna send it he (John) thought that it might have been the 2nd time the route had been climbed (not knowing that Ed had sent it the day before!!). Nice 2012 Christmas presents for Ed & Ben if those are infact the 2nd & 3rd ascents of this difficult route!!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ed Strang fires the last move for the 2nd ascent <br>
Straight Into Frantic Oblivion (5.14-/.13+)

Ed Strang fires the last move for the 2nd ascent Straight Into Frantic Oblivion (5.14-/.13+)

Benjamin Hanna

Wild looking climbing.

Ben working the route. December 2012.

Kevin on Frantic

Another sequence of Kevin Wilkinson working Frantic.

Sequence of Kevin on Frantic

Kevin Wilkinson working his project, Straight into Frantic Oblivion.

Starting the roof crux on<br>
Straight Into Frantic Oblivion (5.14-/.13d)

Starting the roof crux on Straight Into Frantic Oblivion (5.14-/.13d)

Ed Strang in the middle <br>
of the business <br>
Straight Into Frantic Oblivion (5.14a/.13d)

Ed Strang in the middle of the business Straight Into Frantic Oblivion (5.14a/.13d)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Craig Childre
Lubbock, TX

Cool to see it's been repeated. I think when we watched Kevin working for the 1st ascent he was skipping the lower section to rehearse the crux moves below the roof. We just heard the shouts of joy from over at Violin Wall. Mar 1, 2013

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO

The pictures of Kevin are not on this route, or at least as it's currently known. No where on this route are you climbing those moves that Kevin is doing. From looking thru 8a and old notes I think the route described on this page is actually "Malfunction Junction" 13d which was the last route Kevin did in the cave on 3/11/07. This route is now fully equipped with chain draws.

"Straight Into Frantic Oblivion" 13d KW 3/4/06 starts up "It puts the Buff On" for a few bolts, traverses left thru two bolts that currently do not have chains and joins "Malfunction Junction". above its roof crux section. I haven't been on this yet, and there isn't much chalk, but the bolts are still there and it might be the more natural line. This is what I believe Kevin is climbing in the pictures on this page.

So there is an extra route (2 bolt variation) that isn't currently listed, that looks like it has a pretty cool bouldery crux.

Although at this point I guess only Kevin really knows. Feb 4, 2020

Owen S

Mike, I'm not 100% sure what you're trying to say, but I messaged Kevin to clear this up. Malfunction Junction is name of the linkup FWIW. Jul 6, 2020

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO

Basically that "Straight into Frantic Oblivion" was put up up first and is now relegated to link-up status.

Malfunction Junction was put up a year later as a direct start into the top of "Straight into Frantic Oblivion"

So the name is incorrect as posted on here. But hopefully Kevin gets back to you to clear things up. Jul 9, 2020