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Routes in Ptarmigan Peak

Hookers (Only Hookers Get the Blues) WI6- M5
S (north) couloir , The
Ski Tracks WI4 M4
Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Unknown. Carl Tobin?
Page Views: 749 total, 12/month
Shared By: clint helander on Dec 27, 2012
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Hookers is the obvious ice drip hanging over the North Couloir of Ptarmigan Peak. It has a reputation for being aerated, chandeliered and difficult to protect.

In fat years it has been said to come in as easy as WI4 and in lean years or early season as WI6 or a full mixed line.

The first pitch climbs an ice covered slab. Gradually move left and up to the base of the main smear of ice. A little bit of moderate mixed climbing will take you to a large boulder that is strewn with webbing. Belay here, as it is relatively safe from falling ice.

The second pitch is the business. Climb moderate ice to a dead vertical smear accentuated by run out ice, very selective gear placements and "hooky" moves, hence the name. It may be possible to get in several small pieces of rock gear, especially near the top.

Mantle over the snow lip and belay at a fixed pin and bolt anchor on the rock located about 60 feet above.

It is a hell of a route.

Location

High in the north couloir of Ptarmigan Peak.

Protection

Mostly small screws (one 10cm, the rest 13cm and 16cm), a few small cams and nuts.

Photos

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