Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 3500 ft, 20 pitches, Grade V
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,657 total · 37/month
Shared By: Johnkelley Kelley on Dec 25, 2012
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Conditions on this climb vary greatly depending on the season and snow conditions. Later in the season it's mostly a steep snow route. Early season it's a classic mixed route with around 2,000 feet of ice climbing and 1,500 feet of rock.

It's one of the first lines in the area to come into condition. Usually by late October/early November it starts to get buried so get on it early. For the prime early season conditions it seems to be best when the bottom half of the face is free of snow. After the first "terminal dust" falls but disappears. Not the third dusting.

When the conditions are right it's one of the best lines around. The "Black Ice" of the Chugach. It consistently comes into shape, as a mixed ice route, every year from September to October.


Mount Yukla


A small rock rack and a few ice screws.