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Routes in Mount Yukla

Gank'd and Slayed WI6 M5 A2 Steep Snow
History of Things to Come T WI6 M7 R
Most People are DJ's T WI3 M4 Steep Snow R
No Call No Show T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI5 M6 Steep Snow X
North Couloir/Baranow Couloir T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI4-
Positive Side of Negative Thinking, The T WI4 M4 Steep Snow
West Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Mod. Snow
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Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 3500 ft, 20 pitches, Grade V
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,569 total · 37/month
Shared By: Johnkelley Kelley on Dec 25, 2012
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Conditions on this climb vary greatly depending on the season and snow conditions. Later in the season it's mostly a steep snow route. Early season it's a classic mixed route with around 2,000 feet of ice climbing and 1,500 feet of rock.

It's one of the first lines in the area to come into condition. Usually by late October/early November it starts to get buried so get on it early. For the prime early season conditions it seems to be best when the bottom half of the face is free of snow. After the first "terminal dust" falls but disappears. Not the third dusting.

When the conditions are right it's one of the best lines around. The "Black Ice" of the Chugach. It consistently comes into shape, as a mixed ice route, every year from September to October.

Location

Mount Yukla

Protection

A small rock rack and a few ice screws.

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