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Rock Out with Your Glock Out

5.11-, Trad, 85 ft,  Avg: 2.8 from 6 votes
FA: Trevor Bowman, Wayne Harney 11/20/11
Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Pistol Whipped
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This aesthetic curving splitter lies on a nice peach colored panel with calcite on the far left-hand side of the cliff. A great variety route that climbs like a tower pitch.

Layback up the left-curving fingers flake with small calcite footholds which quickly opens to tight hands and a decent stretch of slammer hands to the short, flared slot. Inch up the crux slot (still a bit dusty after the removal of a large flake) which is deceptively harder than it looks. Exit the slot over a cups/tight fists bulge and finish up double cracks (fingers/hands) on either side of large blocks to a chimney stance and the anchors.

Location

About 10 minutes left of Have a Heart Donna. No real path yet, but the side-hilling isn't too bad through here.

Protection

(1X).5,.75,1 (5-6X) 2 (2X) 3 (1X) new 4, new 5 BD sizes, chains

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hoody negotiates the crux slot.
[Hide Photo] Hoody negotiates the crux slot.
Pondering the pod.
[Hide Photo] Pondering the pod.
The route with upper section foreshortened. The big block in the lower slot is gone now. Anchors are at the base of the upper chimney.
[Hide Photo] The route with upper section foreshortened. The big block in the lower slot is gone now. Anchors are at the base of the upper chimney.