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Rock Out with Your Glock Out
Trad, 85 ft,
Avg: 2.8 from 6
FA: Trevor Bowman, Wayne Harney 11/20/11
> Moab Area
> Indian Creek
> Pistol Whipped
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas
Please be aware of climbing routes that have nesting raptors. This News Release requests climbers' cooperation in protecting eagles, peregrine falcons, and other migratory birds who use the Indian Creek area to raise their young. Between March 1st and August 31st each year, the BLM asks climbers to avoid climbing these walls until they have been cleared by agency biologists: The Wall, Far Side, Second Meat Wall, Disappointment Cliff, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. Two of these walls are on partially or wholly on lands managed by SITLA, who is working cooperatively with BLM to protect raptors. The BLM and SITLA will survey walls and generally in May can release any routes that don't have active nests. The walls with active nests should be avoided until the young have fledged. Eagles and falcons mate for life and return to the same nest sites year after year to raise their young, your cooperation is vital to their survival.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
This aesthetic curving splitter lies on a nice peach colored panel with calcite on the far left-hand side of the cliff. A great variety route that climbs like a tower pitch.
Layback up the left-curving fingers flake with small calcite footholds which quickly opens to tight hands and a decent stretch of slammer hands to the short, flared slot. Inch up the crux slot (still a bit dusty after the removal of a large flake) which is deceptively harder than it looks. Exit the slot over a cups/tight fists bulge and finish up double cracks (fingers/hands) on either side of large blocks to a chimney stance and the anchors.
About 10 minutes left of Have a Heart Donna. No real path yet, but the side-hilling isn't too bad through here.
(1X).5,.75,1 (5-6X) 2 (2X) 3 (1X) new 4, new 5 BD sizes, chains