Let's Do The Trad
5.9,
Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
FA: Dirk Saenger, Edgar Boehm (2003)
International
> Asia
> Taiwan
> Long Dong (Drag…
> (9) Above the Waves
Description
This route will test your ability to remain composed amongst loose rock and questionable protection. If you're not looking for alpine training, just do the first pitch.
P1 - Two stars. Start up slightly overhanging rock with big features and tricky placements. At the ledge, continue straight up a short but stellar jam crack. Finish on easy rock, trending left to a nice belay ledge with a titanium anchor.
P2 - Bomb. Step left into the slabby, grassy choss and then up into the chunky, loose dihedral. Hopefully you can get some decent gear in here. Climb delicately, cruxing through some big pulls on questionable blocks, until the dihedral narrows, and gun it to the big grassy ledge. To the right are the bolts for the second pitch of Bicolor, which you can use to belay if you want.
P3 - Bomb. Try not to slip on the grass, and continue into the corner chimney to the right, find whatever gear you can, and finish on the ledge. Two raps with a 60m will get you down.
Location
On the Euro Wall, just to the left of Climax and Tofu Tower.
Protection
Gear to 3". Slings.
Titanium (2014) - all three anchors
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Its fun and has beautiful views, each pitch requires different technique (crack/face, face/ditheral, corner chimney), one of few longer moderates in Longdong; not one the Longdong finest but underrated in my opinion.
The protection is good, at the very least decent, perhaps slightly below the Longdong average but, comparatively, way better than on most routes I climbed a month ago in Avon Gorge in Bristol.
1st pitch: You will most likely not hear each other, visual contect is easier if starting a bit to the left or right (though the climbing is less challanging that way). At the ledge it's most fun to climb the crack but one can also climb the face on the right side of the crack (5.7?)
2nd pitch: There is some poor rock but the climb can be protected. I did fall twice when climbing it year ago. There are a few good placements for nuts and small cams (0.3-0.4''); half the way thourgh there is a vertical crack with a solid placement for 2''. There is an old anchor on a route to the right and a titanium anchor on a route to the left - the old anchor does not look trustworthy and the titanium one is not really on the way; personally I think its best to make a trad anchor right after the short grassy ledge - bigger cams (1-3'') will be useful here.
3rd pitch: Short but fun corner chimney, very different climbing than the previous pitches. Can be well protected with smaller cams (0.3-1'') - pretty convinient as the bigger ones were used for the anchor! Aug 3, 2017