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Wretch
V4,
Boulder, 16 ft (5 m),
Avg: 2.4 from 26
votes
FA: unknown
Utah
> Central Utah
> Joe's Valley
> Right Fork
> Dairy Canyon
Access Issue: Don't climb on wet rock!
Details
Attention:
Don't climb on wet rock! Sandstone is a porous rock type that can absorb a lot of water. It can lose up to 75% of its strength while wet, making it easy to snap off holds and irreparably damage classic climbs. Wait 48 to 72hrs after precipitation. If the ground is still damp then the rock is still wet. A great way to check for precipitation history before traveling to Joe's is to go to this site-
climate.usu.edu/mchd/dashbo… and under "Data Charts" click the "Precipitation" tab. Make sure the surface wetness is 0 before climbing.
Description
Sit start a bit left of the tree on a good flake/jug. Head straight up with a long move to a an obvious vertical pocket, and continue up on pockets and side pulls, trending a bit right when nearing the top. Finish with a slightly dicey top out.
Location
This is on the first boulder above the parking, the same as Stir the Pie. From the trail head, take one of two trails up the hill to the right to the first boulder. Wretch is in the middle of the long face, vertical face that faces the trail head, around the corner to the right of Stir the Pie. It starts just left of the tree.
Protection
2 or 3 pads. The route migrates a bit. A spotter would be nice as the top out is a little dicey.
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