Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Snake Alley

5.10, Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
FA: unknown
International > Asia > Taiwan > Long Dong (Drag… > (9) Above the Waves

Description

Start up the buttress to the right of Tofu Tower on big holds. Step right onto the ledge and protect as you can with runners. Step back left onto the ledge to scope the next move or pull straight up onto the face. This bit is often wet. Step right across a horizontal, then continue up the face to a small ledge. Pull the crux just above this ledge, and top out at a glue-in bolt anchor.

The second pitch starts about 20 feet up and left, through the encroaching pandanus plants, through a small bulge. Runner the anchor to prevent a fall directly onto your belayer. Pull through this to get up onto the slab. Climb the slab, trending right to the arete, and step around the arete at a slight overhang into the obtuse corner. Continue up this corner with sustained but moderate climbing until the holds become more numerous and you eventually top out at a SWEET ledge. Enjoy the view from the best vantage point in this area.

Two rappels with a 60m rope get you to the ground. There are numerous anchors.

Location

Between the main Golden Valley area and the Cathouse. First route to the right of Tofu Tower.

Protection

Gear to 2" ... a little heady, but safe
Anchors: one 316 steel (2013) and TI bolt (2018)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Danger at the top of the 2nd pitch
[Hide Photo] Danger at the top of the 2nd pitch
The start of <em>Snake Alley</em>
[Hide Photo] The start of Snake Alley
2nd broken bolt (2014)
[Hide Photo] 2nd broken bolt (2014)
1st broken bolt (2008)
[Hide Photo] 1st broken bolt (2008)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The glue in was broken roughly around 2008, not long after installation. The bolt broke after the climber took while about a foot above, but luckily the closely-spaced bolt just below held.

Inferior steel, perhaps. Poor installation may have been the culprit too. In either case, it is the only glue-in breakage in the area that I heard of.

If in doubt about the bolts, bring a handful of camming units in the finger to tight hands range. There are plenty of options for placements on the first pitch, I don't recall the second very well. Oct 30, 2013
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10
[Hide Comment] According to Matt's book, the bolts were placed in 2002. They are the bolts that Dirk and Edgar used on all their other routes - a 304-steel made by Ferno. They are considered dangerous and should not be trusted. Nov 4, 2013
Danger
Taipei City
[Hide Comment] The 2nd pitch is just as good as the first and goes grat on gear but has spicy but safe runout at one committing section.

2nd pitch anchors now do not have chain but slings in various states of wear Jun 21, 2014