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Routes in (9) Above the Waves

BA Insanity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cat's Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climax T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cold Sushi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cunning Linguist T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dangerous Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Doublethink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fillet Show T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Member T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Shower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Happy Endings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lap Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Let's Do The Trad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love You Long Time TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ocean's Eleven T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Orange Juice S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pearl Necklace T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Psycho Killer T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rastafarian Seabirds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake Alley T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tanz en Den Mai S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tofu Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet and Hairy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 539 total, 9/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Dec 21, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Start up the buttress to the right of Tofu Tower on big holds. Step right onto the ledge and protect as you can with runners. Step back left onto the ledge to scope the next move or pull straight up onto the face. This bit is often wet. Step right across a horizontal, then continue up the face to a small ledge. Pull the crux just above this ledge, and top out at a glue-in bolt anchor.

The second pitch starts about 20 feet up and left, through the encroaching pandanus plants, through a small bulge. Runner the anchor to prevent a fall directly onto your belayer. Pull through this to get up onto the slab. Climb the slab, trending right to the arete, and step around the arete at a slight overhang into the obtuse corner. Continue up this corner with sustained but moderate climbing until the holds become more numerous and you eventually top out at a SWEET ledge. Enjoy the view from the best vantage point in this area.

Two rappels with a 60m rope get you to the ground. There are numerous anchors.

Location

Between the main Golden Valley area and the Cathouse. First route to the right of Tofu Tower.

Protection

Gear to 2" ... a little heady, but safe
1st pitch anchor: one 316 steel (2013) and one dangerous bolt (2002)
2nd pitch anchor: one 316 steel (2013) and two dangerous bolts (2002), all connected with old ropes and slings

Photos

Danger
Taipei City
Danger   Taipei City
The 2nd pitch is just as good as the first and goes grat on gear but has spicy but safe runout at one committing section.

2nd pitch anchors now do not have chain but slings in various states of wear Jun 21, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
According to Matt's book, the bolts were placed in 2002. They are the bolts that Dirk and Edgar used on all their other routes - a 304-steel made by Ferno. They are considered dangerous and should not be trusted. Nov 4, 2013
BrianWS  
The glue in was broken roughly around 2008, not long after installation. The bolt broke after the climber took while about a foot above, but luckily the closely-spaced bolt just below held.

Inferior steel, perhaps. Poor installation may have been the culprit too. In either case, it is the only glue-in breakage in the area that I heard of.

If in doubt about the bolts, bring a handful of camming units in the finger to tight hands range. There are plenty of options for placements on the first pitch, I don't recall the second very well. Oct 30, 2013