Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,380 total · 10/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Dec 21, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Start up the buttress to the right of Tofu Tower on big holds. Step right onto the ledge and protect as you can with runners. Step back left onto the ledge to scope the next move or pull straight up onto the face. This bit is often wet. Step right across a horizontal, then continue up the face to a small ledge. Pull the crux just above this ledge, and top out at a glue-in bolt anchor.

The second pitch starts about 20 feet up and left, through the encroaching pandanus plants, through a small bulge. Runner the anchor to prevent a fall directly onto your belayer. Pull through this to get up onto the slab. Climb the slab, trending right to the arete, and step around the arete at a slight overhang into the obtuse corner. Continue up this corner with sustained but moderate climbing until the holds become more numerous and you eventually top out at a SWEET ledge. Enjoy the view from the best vantage point in this area.

Two rappels with a 60m rope get you to the ground. There are numerous anchors.

Location Suggest change

Between the main Golden Valley area and the Cathouse. First route to the right of Tofu Tower.

Protection Suggest change

Gear to 2" ... a little heady, but safe
Anchors: one 316 steel (2013) and TI bolt (2018)

Photos

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