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F.O.A. (F***ed On Arrival)

5.11b, Sport, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 33 votes
FA: unknown
Arkansas > Northeast Arkan… > Jamestown Crag > Strawberry shortcake…

Description

One of the best at Jamestown. Starts with vertical/technical climbing with a reachy crux move right off of the ground. The route continues with a couple more pumpy moves to a rest below the roof. The roof itself is pumpfest on jugs. Pull the lip onto the face and you are at the anchors. Don't grab the root.

Location

This route is near the midway point of Jamestown crag. It climbs the overhang immediately right of Strawberry Shortcake.

Protection

Hanging Draws

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mikey clipping from the heel hook ledge, almost through the roof section.
[Hide Photo] Mikey clipping from the heel hook ledge, almost through the roof section.
A singular difficult move protects the jug bashing, pump inducing, roof
[Hide Photo] A singular difficult move protects the jug bashing, pump inducing, roof
Rest before the pump-fest
[Hide Photo] Rest before the pump-fest
Jake Hall Climbing FOA
[Hide Photo] Jake Hall Climbing FOA

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Eric Van Williams
Oside,CA
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] FOA is closer to 80" IF you take it to the top. The frist quarter of the climb is more of a face than a Slab. and the FA was done on trad before the bolts were put in! Dec 18, 2012
Andy Riley
Barcelona, ES
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Do you know who the first ascentionist was Eric? Also is the 80 feet you're referring to including the second pitch? Dec 18, 2012
Eric Van Williams
Oside,CA
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] No, I dont have my guidebook but its listed in there(rock climbing arkansas by Cole Fennel. I always climb the money, whole 80ft in one pitch!!!

Also, since the hanging chain/draws were installed FOA feels much more like a 5.11a to me. Its better to clip your own draws, plus chains and hanging draws takes away from the rocks natural beauty!

I think it goes 5.11c trad, 5.11b sportdraws, 5.11a chains.. its sad, it keeps getting chopped down a grade .. lol Dec 18, 2012
chris magness
[Hide Comment] Felt like 11a at most to me, maybe even 10d. One technical sequence to jugs. Grade would be the same placing gear or hanging draws. Having fixed chains definately takes the sting out of the pump factor.

Grades are generaly pretty soft here.. Still, this route is f-a-n-t-a-s-t-i-c-! Mar 27, 2016