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All Locations > Arkansas > Jamestown Crag > Strawberry shortcake wall

F.O.A. (F***ed On Arrival)

5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British


 Avg: 3.4 from 18 votes

Routes in Strawberry shortcake wall

F.O.A. (F***ed On Arrival) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Rodeo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shelf Life S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Strawberry Shortcake S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 868 total · 12/month
Shared By: Andy Riley on Dec 17, 2012
Admins: TylerKC

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18 Opinions

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Description

One of the best at Jamestown. Starts with vertical/technical climbing with a reachy crux move right off of the ground. The route continues with a couple more pumpy moves to a rest below the roof. The roof itself is pumpfest on jugs. Pull the lip onto the face and you are at the anchors. Don't grab the root.

Location

This route is near the midway point of Jamestown crag. It climbs the overhang immediately right of Strawberry Shortcake.

Protection

Hanging Draws

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A singular difficult move protects the jug bashing, pump inducing, roof
A singular difficult move protects the jug bash…
 0
Rest before the pump-fest
Rest before the pump-fest
 0
Jake Hall Climbing FOA
Jake Hall Climbing FOA
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4 Comments

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Eric Van Williams
Oside,CA
  5.11a
Eric Van Williams   Oside,CA
  5.11a
FOA is closer to 80" IF you take it to the top. The frist quarter of the climb is more of a face than a Slab. and the FA was done on trad before the bolts were put in! Dec 18, 2012
Andy Riley
Yangon, MM
  5.11b
Andy Riley   Yangon, MM  
  5.11b
Do you know who the first ascentionist was Eric? Also is the 80 feet you're referring to including the second pitch? Dec 18, 2012
Eric Van Williams
Oside,CA
  5.11a
Eric Van Williams   Oside,CA
  5.11a
No, I dont have my guidebook but its listed in there(rock climbing arkansas by Cole Fennel. I always climb the money, whole 80ft in one pitch!!!

Also, since the hanging chain/draws were installed FOA feels much more like a 5.11a to me. Its better to clip your own draws, plus chains and hanging draws takes away from the rocks natural beauty!

I think it goes 5.11c trad, 5.11b sportdraws, 5.11a chains.. its sad, it keeps getting chopped down a grade .. lol Dec 18, 2012
chris magness
chris magness  
Felt like 11a at most to me, maybe even 10d. One technical sequence to jugs. Grade would be the same placing gear or hanging draws. Having fixed chains definately takes the sting out of the pump factor.

Grades are generaly pretty soft here.. Still, this route is f-a-n-t-a-s-t-i-c-! Mar 27, 2016

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