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Routes in Primal Wall Area
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American Life S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Apollos Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Green Ranger T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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SGT Baker T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Southbound Pachyderm T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Things that Shouldn't be T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Sport, 155 ft |
| FA: | Ron Yahne, Travis Rypkema, and Vern Phinney |
| Page Views: | 1,058 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Wilson On The Drums on Dec 16, 2012 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
Your Star Rating:
Description
Best done as 1 full pitch (155ft), but it can be broken up in 2 using the mid route anchors. The climbing is sustained, but perfect for those looking to get into the 5.9 grade. I wouldn't say that there is a distinct crux... a little route finding goes a long way and trusting your feet is essential. If anything, going from the bolt before the mid route anchors to the bolt after the anchors is the crux. Great climbing on great features, get on it!
Location
Park at the Horsethief Lake pull-off. Cross the street towards the guard rail, find the well defined trail and follow it 10-15 minutes. At some point you will stop following the trail (the Primal Wall will be in sight) go down a steep hill, cross the creek, and work your way up to the wall. There are 2 bolted routes on the wall, this is the leftmost.
Portland, OR
The original leader got spooked and came down so I lead the route. The climbing was good -- a lot of delicate friction/slab moves, and not always obvious to me -- but I had a large hand hold break off as I was testing it.
I give the route a PG13 rating if you don't place gear on the way to the first bolt. Sep 3, 2015