Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Army of Darkness Boulder

Army of Darkness V5 6C
Basketball Diaries V5 6C
DiCaprio Arete, The V1 5
Frankenspank V7 7A+
Left Hand Of Darkness V7-8 7B
Queen Amadala V7 7A+
Right Hand Of Darkness V8 7B
Type: Boulder
FA: Kevin Kane
Page Views: 704 total, 12/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Dec 14, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Start the same as 'Army Of Darkness', with a good high right hand edge/sidepull and the left on a low crimpy sidepull/undercling. After getting established on the wall, move right into a shallow scoop and upward using underclings and small crimps.

This line rarely has chalk on it, which is a shame since it climbs beautifully and offers some of the finest rock at Big Bend. The lack of chalk adds to the experience as part of the difficulty lies in identifying usable holds amidst the sea of black sandstone.

Good footwork and unwavering confidence is helpful!

Location

Located on the right end of the face visible from the road. This problem starts the same as 'Army of Darkness' and ascends perfect black varnished sandstone. Beautiful!

Protection

Lots of pads and spotters are useful. This problem is quite tall and the landing area is uneven due to a large sloping rock at its base.

Photos

- No Photos -
FA: Kevin Kane Dec 15, 2015
ben jammin
Moab, UT
ben jammin   Moab, UT
This problem is f.u.n.k.y. Although very intriguing. I would love to get some more beta on this thing, it seems very improbable.

Climbs like these are hard to work because you just never know if that key hold has broken making it downright impossible. Although, since its been posted, I guess it's possible. Back to the drawing board. Feb 8, 2013