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Routes in Army of Darkness Boulder

Army of Darkness V5 6C
Basketball Diaries V5 6C
DiCaprio Arete, The V1 5
Frankenspank V7 7A+
Left Hand Of Darkness V7-8 7B
Queen Amadala V7 7A+
Right Hand Of Darkness V8 7B
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 550 total, 9/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Dec 14, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Stand start with your left hand on a good sidepull and your right hand on a bad undercling or gastoned on a two pad edge. Puzzle together a way to get to the good shelf above. From there, continue upward angling either slightly left or right, depending on your preference.

You can also start this standing off the rock at left and reaching up to high holds on the arete. This makes the problem significantly easier (probably v4-ish?).

Location

Located on the left side of the face visible from the road. Starts standing just right of an obvious flat rock.

Protection

Several pads are useful due to the height of the problem as well as the potential for landing on the flat rock to the left. Having a spotter standing on the flat rock is ideal.

Photos

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Well I climbed this line yesterday. It definitely climbs differently post break. The weird press cross through move is probably not possible anymore, but I never liked it that way anyway. :) I actually ended up sending it with my original beta that I was trying before we figured out the press move. Personally, I think it's cooler and harder than before. As for the grade, I always thought that it was more like v8 and post break I definitely feel like it's solidly v8. Now for the Right Hand... Jan 11, 2017
ben jammin
Moab, UT
ben jammin   Moab, UT
I think the key foot broke on this recently which allowed the palm press and cross through. Not sure how this thing will climb now. Nov 1, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Did something break on this? Seems pretty stout for v7...only one or two really hard moves, but still seems hard for the grade.

Perhaps I'm missing something with the beta? Thoughts? Dec 14, 2012