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Routes in The Black Box

Arete Left Side V3 6A
Arete Left Side Sit Start V9 7C
Arete Right Side V3 6A
Back Alley V0 4 PG13
Back Alley Left V1 5 PG13
Blue Light V9 7C
Center Direct V3 6A
Center Start V1 5
Slots of Fun V2 5+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 887 total, 15/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Dec 14, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Start sitting on the left side of the right arete on the main face of the Black Box Boulder. Both hands are matched on a positive undercling. From here, you have a couple of different options.

You can opt for a big dynamic deadpoint to the small, but good crimp above. Or you can use a number of smaller moves and a bit of trickery to reach the crimp.

Upon reaching the crimp, slap right hand up the arete and finish as for the stand start.

Location

Located on the far right side of the main face of the Black Box Boulder. Starts sitting on the obvious undercling on the left side of the arete.

Protection

A coupe of pads are useful

Photos

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
I've never been able to stick the crimp via the dynamic deadpoint, but the static version climbs beautifully. Not sure if this way is v9 though.

Any insight from others that have climbed this line?

You can also opt to do the dyno finish to this problem. After reaching the crimp, match on it and fire for the lip of the boulder. Probably a little bit harder this way. Dec 14, 2012