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Routes in Flat Top Boulder

1000 LB Caboose V8 7B
Crimp Challenge, The V2 5+
Double Crimp V4 6B
Dyno for Dollars V4 6B
Kick Start V0 4
Kick Start Low V3 6A
Leftover Lover V0 4
Lip Traverse V2 5+
Mr. Trujillo's Big Day V2+ 5+
Nazi Traverse, The V7- 7A+
Pregnancy Arete, The V2+ 5+
Silly Wabbit V3 6A
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Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,070 total · 15/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Dec 14, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Start sitting on an assortment of interesting pockets. Move up and slight left through some of the coolest pockets around. Find some tiny crimps above and step up towards a small two finger crimp located in a vertical seam. Finish it off.

Avoid using the big foot (and hand holds) out left.

Location

Located in the middle of the road side face, right of 'Leftover Lover' and left of 'Kick Start'. The unique starting pockets are fairly obvious.

Protection

A pad or two

Photos

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Having climbed what I feel like is the 'natural' line, using a small crimp up and left (but avoiding the big feet out left), it's arguable that this line is easier than v8.

The stand start seems kind of pointless, especially given that the crux seems to be the top half.

Anyone else have any insight? Dec 14, 2012
ferrells  
 
I thought it was pretty hard to use that crimp in the face, and that might constitute the grade, depending on what you do with your feet. It's not satisfying, but I think this one is kind of an eliminate, and if you found the v8 variation, you did the problem, and if you didn't you maybe found a slightly different line. I suspect that there is a way to climb this section of holds and make it v8, and I think you have to use that greasy crimp in the face and the two finger edge in the seam above to make it that way. Dec 12, 2016

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