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Routes in Main Canyon Left

5.10 Layback TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bestard TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Stinger TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Heat Seeker TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mission Impossible V4+ 6B+ PG13
Thin Crack TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: by Tyler Alexander Garrett
Page Views: 1,094 total · 16/month
Shared By: Tyler Garrett on Dec 14, 2012
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description [Suggest Change]

Update: By J. Thornton on Dec 25, 2012
This problem is actually on Big Overhang wall, and is same start as Hidden Jewel.
---- Thanks for the help J. Thornton. -Tyler

1080p HD Video of the first send by Tyler Garrett VIA GoProCam.
youtube.com/watch?v=NEB-HUQ… watch to learn the moves to make this a must see at mineral wells.

Route Name:
When working this out I felt like we were on mission impossible because of how close to the ground you are, can't even get a pad underneath it. Luke, a sick sick sick sport climber, thinks this is a V5, but since I made the video I'm calling it a V4 ;-) because I sent it first.

Route Rating:
There are a lot of ways to go about solving this problem. My beta/moves will make it V4. A lot of intermediate moves to get to the finish but these moves will give you a challenge. At the very least do the start, drop into the bottom shelf, and work your way to the largest shelf and continue on to the finish, I wouldn't give the other beta more than a V2 rating.

Beta:
Two hand start, fall into the lower shelf of holds. Heel hook and move your way up to the crimpy right hand then off to the AMAZING pocket on the left. From their high feet and dyno for the sloper. The slope is a terrible hold, very sharp rocks near the top, and bumping to the last pocket from this is very challenging and I would consider it a V4+ if you use the slope and bump to the finish.

Rules:
Now remember boys and girls... bouldering or free climbing as they call it, is not allowed in the Park... But one climber is allowed to free climb to set the top rope! But only one person can do it!! So every time you start bouldering, be sure to tell everyone what your intent is.

Hope you enjoy the route, drop some feedback in the comments.

Cheers,
Keamo

Location [Suggest Change]

The print out guide at the front office isn't very well done, but if you can navigate to #33 on the print out ..I guess.. , then you have found it. Basically walk down the stairs, and keep left, until you walk through a somewhat tight crack. Keep left! There it is.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Take a knee to spot your friends. Throw the pad down so the drop isn't 2 crazy, considering it is on a downhill slant and all rock.

Photos

Looks good. This problem is actually on Big Overhang wall, and is same start as Hidden Jewel. The pocket you end at is the same pocket mentioned in the Hidden Jewel route description. Dec 25, 2012

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