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Routes in Main Wall

Beekeeper, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Birdman, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Corner Pocket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Experience S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Cowboys S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hard Kor S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Honk in the Tunnel S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
I-70 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Kor's Corner S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Long Haul, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
More Kor S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Urban Cowboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Youth (full) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Youth Warm-up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Eric Candee?
Page Views: 510 total, 8/month
Shared By: D-Storm on Dec 11, 2012
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route starts from a ledge 50 feet up the left side of the main wall, which is probably why it hasn't seen much traffic. A friend and I recently dusted the holds off and found what I think is the best 12b at the cliff. It seems to be all natural as well, which is not the norm for 5.12s here.

The route is easily picked out by a prominent, V-shaped inset with a bush growing out of it near the top. The first four bolts getting to the inset are the crux. There is a tricky clip at the fourth bolt, just before establishing on the smooth, right-slanting ramp that defines the V. There's a bomber rest at the top of the ramp that utilizes a big hole with an abandoned beehive in it (pretty cool to look at). From there, follow the slash up and right on big holds with long reaches. There's some sneaky beta for one span. A pump crux stares you down at the end and two more bolts take you to anchors shared with Experience.

Location

The current approach is to scramble up the fixed ropes that go to The Long Haul and follow ropes out to the right on the ledge below TLH, which is one ledge higher on the left (there are two sets of fixed lines that go to The Long Haul; the ropes in question are on the right and you have to scramble up a chossy ramp to reach them).

Protection

With a 70-meter rope, your partner can belay from the ground. A direct start might be bolted at some point to make the route more fun and accessible. From the ledge, there are nine bolts to an anchor with fixed biners.

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