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Hottie with a Naughty Body
5.11-,
Trad, 125 ft (38 m),
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
FA: Wayne Harney
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> La Sal Mountains
> N Fork
> Dihedrals
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
125'! Identified by a dark varnished wide hands corner. (a little beyond the awesome looking varnished finger crack corner) A 70M rope barely reaches the base. Scamper up the right side of the big flake to the base of the corner. Climb the slippery but fun V chimney past a bolt until you can reach the steep big hands corner. Tape gloves recommended for some sharp calcite near the top. Notice the fingers crack to undercling roof to fingers corner a little ways right
Location
See overview photo
Protection
A couple red and gold camalots and 4-5 blue camalots, possibly a 1 cam for the top. Runners help with rope drag.
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