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Routes in Granite Mountain Link-Ups

Cat's PJ's-Said and Done-Reunion-Beaver Cleaver (The Other Hot-Line) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flying Pig, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Soul-Man Traverse, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Andrew Soleman and Rusty Pipe
Page Views: 693 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jed G on Dec 10, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

This route follows The Hot-Line, or the Hiccup Deluxe linkup, then traverses down Camptown Races, to a sliding down of the bottom half of Carl's Corner's second pitch. Then goes up Slammer Jam, to Backwards under the Candyland pitch under the Great Roof, then over to Kinpin's last two pitches. This is an unconventional approach to climbing in some respects, and may seem a little silly, but it is a full on, intense climb, and connects many of the best pitches on the face in a unique fashion. If you do it you will find it to be less contrived than it may seem.

P1-3) follow the "Hot Line" which is the first pitch of The Nose(5.10) to the second pitch of Cat's Pajamas (5.8) to the splitter third pitch of Reunion (10a).


P4) the crux of this linkup is downclimbing Camptown Races, which is a traverse with a downward trend. This is more of a toprope scenario for the person leading, but they must seriously consider their follower while placing gear, and protect the crux as well as possible so that the follower doesn't smash into Carl's corner if they miss the intense switch from underclinging to crimping...Once in Carl's corner, sliding down it is fun , but don't forget to place gear for follower. (5.11 in the downclimbing direction)

P5) Combine what is traditionally known as pitch 2 and three of Slammer Jam **** (5.9+)

P6) Traverse backwards under the Candyland roof and protect well for the follower (5.8+)

P7) Traverse from the ledge under the Great Roof to the ledge at the base of the face pitch on Kinpin (5.8+)

P8-9) Climb the last two pitches of Kingpin (5.9-5.8)

Protection

a rack of singles to doubles up to number 4

Photos

Jed G
 
Jed G  
 
A Note On the Grade: This route is 99% 5.10, there is one crux move on the route as described on Pitch 4 that is a very tough move with some possible consequences. Although Camptown Races is 5.10. traversing it backwards is a bit more technical. The person following here will be on the sharp end, it would behoove them to be 5.11 strong. This route gets its name from the guy (Soleman), who on the first known link-up of these pitches, stuck that and thus ensured that he didn't get hurt....Oh, and he pretty much took point on all the hard parts....Again, just make sure to protect your partner well for that crux if you're leading down this pitch, even if you take a fall and end up well below that spot. Nov 18, 2017
Robin like the bird
mountain center ,CA
Robin like the bird   mountain center ,CA
I Heard this was called,, Jedi-soul traverse. Dec 22, 2012