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Routes in ORP

Orgy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Running on Empty T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 175 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Edmund Ward & Karl Kiser, late 70s
Page Views: 199 total, 3/month
Shared By: Karl Kiser on Dec 10, 2012
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

p1: scramble up to the top of a small mound below a roof. face climb up to the roof, clip a bolt and then traverse right around a corner and belay (at bolts).

p2: just follow the crack, this is the crux pitch. jam some off width, rest, and then go up a steep lie back. step left at the end of the pumpy section and belay at bolts.

p3: don't do it, it is 5.8 and loose.

Location

The route is on the north side of the east buttress of Orp. Approach as per Orgy but be on the downhill side of the big gash. Look for the obvious crack system on the north margin of the buttress.
Rap off the top of the second pitch to the right, about 150 feet.

Protection

Standard trad rack with at least one larger piece for the short offwidth section on the second pitch.

Photos

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Karl Kiser  
 
Take a bolt kit, the anchor bolts are old and need some help. Dec 10, 2012