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Routes in Pharaoh

'Phraid T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bladerunner S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
By Cracky T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Crack-Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cripple Creek T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gashlycrumb Tinies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hell is for Heros T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lost in the Alps T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
On Ramp T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thrash and Dangle T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Time the Avenger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: efr, jpr, kc, bky
Page Views: 663 total · 11/month
Shared By: Joe Lee on Dec 9, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

You've done R-4, Space Cowboy, and Stoner Boner and you're looking for another classic Mt Lemmon "moderate" on gear. This may be your climb. From the ground doesn't look like much. Great rock, long pitch, good pro, bit heady, little bit sandbagged. Just a little.

Location

When you reach the base of the Pharaoh, head left till you reach the left side of the main wall. Continue up and left a bit to a short clean left facing corner. The right side overhangs a bit. There are two bolts at the summit. Easy down climb on the back side. A sixty won't get your down. You might be able to get down with a 70. Might.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Karl Groll
Tucson, AZ
Karl Groll   Tucson, AZ
Didn't know much about the route going in, so just adding a few comments and I picture of where we started.

Didn't really feel sandbagged, 5.10- seems about right. Rock didn't feel that well traveled - it seems like the crux for me was just worrying about what stuff was going to crumble. It's a mixed route, with several bolts up high. I thought the bolted face was higher quality than the lower section.

It's a single, pretty long pitch. Two bolts at the summit. SQLIII says this is easily top roped, but I'm not sure from where? I finished pretty far past the half way point on a 70, and didn't think it was too wandery.

Since our stuff was at the base, we just scrambled off towards the east (climbers-left side of the formation) and were down within 5-10 minutes. Would be convenient to hit up Ripple Wall while you're up there.

Probably not worth a trip to the area on its own, but a good addition if you're there. Oct 8, 2016
I recently did something on the left side of the Pharaoh, but I'm not sure it was this. The terrain on the left side of this cliff is complicated. Does anyone have a picture of this route? Oct 29, 2015