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Routes in Tan Man Tower

Bush Doctor S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
East TMT S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Homeboy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tan Man Corner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tan Man Left Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 670 total, 11/month
Shared By: SCherry on Dec 9, 2012
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Climbs the obvious major corner system in the center of the Tan Man Tower on excellent stone, with classic stemming and laybacking. This is one of the best 5.10's I have done in the area!

Begins at the base of the corner and shares the first 4 bolts with "Bush Doctor". When "Bush Doctor" heads right out of the corner continue straight up to a stance below a section of splitter fingers in the corner. Layback this section (Crux) to the corners end, then make an obvious traverse left (pumpy) along a flat shelf to anchors at a stance on the left side of the top of the wall.

Currently there are no rap rings at this anchor but someone conveniently left carabiners to lower from. Alternately you could bring your second up and rap off the hangers if the biners happen to be missing.

Location

Starts at the base of the obvious large corner in the center of Tan Man Tower. Shares the first 4 bolts with the route "Bush Doctor"

Protection

8 bolts to a double-bolt anchor

Photos

Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
You can really sew this crack up with about 8 pieces... and by pieces i mean quickdraws... ;) Oct 20, 2015
Quan
 
Quan  
 
Awkward climbing up to the first bolt leads to fun, varying, moves up top. Everything from traversing, to liebacks, to stemming, the route has all the makings of a quality single pitch route. Good warm up, or one you should at least bag on the way out.

The first time I did this climb was last February on an 80˚ day. The rock, being directly in the sun, ended up turning our fingertips black and little fun was had on any of the climbs we did that day. After climbing it in ~60˚ weather yesterday during an evening session, I can safely say it was the heat that skewed my enjoyment. Oct 20, 2015