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Routes in Zappa Wall

Aid Line (Chockstone Roulette?) T C1
Beside the Pillar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blood Pulse T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Calcite Fingers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Curve, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dirty Red Cam Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Far Right Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flake (unknown there was no plaque) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fork It (HVS) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof), The T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Green Cam Lieback (aka Pasta Maker, aka Brick Head) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hands to OW T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hands to OW Chimney (unknown due to no plaque) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging to the Right (unknown due to no plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Left Leaner T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mr. Sheeley T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muffin Man (aka Leaning Corner or Moderation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My Big 3 Inch (no plaque at bottom) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
OW Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
One Bolt Wonder (unknown not a plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Point 5 roof T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Short, Some Hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slightly Overhanging Wide Corner (unknown no plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zig-Zag T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Zombie Woof (submitted as Big Hands Roof) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 926 total, 15/month
Shared By: rob pizem on Dec 9, 2012
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the ever-widening offwidth dihedral to the left of the Zig-Zag route.

Protection

Bring gear 3-6 inches.

Photos

slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
Beyond ultra lame. I say chop, chop, chop. Apr 8, 2017
Kent Pease
Littleton, Colorado
Kent Pease   Littleton, Colorado
I was very disappointed to see bolts added to this route with both an intermediate anchor and two for protection on-route. “Mr. Sheley” is a proud line standing as a testament to long hard workouts inspired by my high school track and X-country coach. As noted above, the climb is 150 feet long and ends on top of the pillar. Shortening the climb with an intermediate anchor is like dropping out of a race. Also, the addition of bolts where removable protection is available violates our basic standards for the sport and is an unwarranted intrusion on nature. I request that the persons who placed the bolts reverse the process and return the route to its original condition. Apr 6, 2017
Mike Storeim
Evergreen, CO
Mike Storeim   Evergreen, CO
Just curious - Why is the name Catholic Girls still attached to this route?

It's only aka that name by whoever retro bolted an anchor halfway up an existing climb that already had an anchor at the top that can be seen from the ground. Dec 24, 2012
Slim, I was just out there this past weekend and noticed the new anchors. I was surprised about their appearance. I figured that it went to the top and wondered why they were there. I am glad that you identified the history of the pitch. I have not climbed it yet but will take it to the top next time to enjoy it all. By the way, if you head out, keep an eye for the HUGE rockfall to around the corner to the right. The entire column fell over, it is insane!!! Dec 11, 2012
slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
This is actually an existing route (Mr. Sheley, 10c, 150 ft). The pitch ends at the top of the pillar. As with many routes at Escalante, the climbing doesn't end when it gets wide. If bolts have sprouted 60 feet up, they probably won't last very long. Dec 9, 2012
For a picture, see the Zig-Zag photo. Dec 9, 2012