Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 84 total · 1/month
Shared By: Karl R. Kiser on Dec 9, 2012
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

Climb the left facing weakness on the right of the slab.

Location

Climb the corner and large crack to the right of Thin Red Line. Descent is via a walk off to the north or a rap from the Thin Red Line anchors.

Protection

Trad rack with several large pieces up to four inches.

Photos

Drew Chojnowski
Las Cruces, NM
  5.8+
Drew Chojnowski   Las Cruces, NM  
  5.8+
It's possible that the small mostly dead tree/bush choking up the start of this chimney climb was responsible for the long-running lack of traffic here. The route is interesting, with some miracle ledges and holds allowing you to avoid some chimneying and jamming. There is one somewhat poorly-protected, committing move when you're at the level with the roof on Thin Red Line (see photo). We did some weird climbing higher up to reach the Thin Red Line 5.11 variation bolted anchor... expect some 5.8+ climbing toward the top. A 70m rope would be ideal, so as to reach the ground without having to downclimb. I also recommend doubles in Camalot size #0.5-4. Dec 20, 2018