O Professor - Mãe Inácia
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R
Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Luiz Coslope, Carlos Alve Jr, Henrique Gironha |
Page Views: | 551 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Luiz on Dec 9, 2012 |
Admins: | Tony Yeary, Roberta Zouain, Matt Looby |
Description
This is one of the best routes in the area. Its is shade in the afternoon.
P1 - The route starts in a corner with a handcrack to a ledge than climb with no protection to a bolt (runout, than to the right to a one bolt anchor at the botton of the chimney.(5.10) 160ft.
P2. Follow the chimney to a ledge make the anchor. (5.10) 100 ft
P3 Follow straight passing some roofs than go right to a ledge for belay. no bolts.(5.11b) 90ft
P4 climb going right than up to a cave. The route finishes in this cave.
To go home walk in the corridor and turn on the second entrance right. than you will arrive to the top and see the way to go. Head to the antena tower
P1 - The route starts in a corner with a handcrack to a ledge than climb with no protection to a bolt (runout, than to the right to a one bolt anchor at the botton of the chimney.(5.10) 160ft.
P2. Follow the chimney to a ledge make the anchor. (5.10) 100 ft
P3 Follow straight passing some roofs than go right to a ledge for belay. no bolts.(5.11b) 90ft
P4 climb going right than up to a cave. The route finishes in this cave.
To go home walk in the corridor and turn on the second entrance right. than you will arrive to the top and see the way to go. Head to the antena tower
Location
to arrive at Mae Inacia wall from Lençois you must drive 30km in BR-242 Road to west. Park at the gas station just in front of Pai Inacio peak. walk 15 minutes in the dirt road that starts in frot of the gas station and exit the road and climb the talus uder the wall. There is no stablished trail, but you will find some climbers marks. The descent is on the other side of the wall, so you will have to walk aroud the walls
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