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Runnel Chunnel
5.9,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Arie Leeflang and Sean Brown, July 2005?
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Egg
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Climbing the west end of The Egg formation The Runnel offers some interesting climbing. The crux is avoiding the inordinately large stack of rotten blocks that make up the left edge of the runnel. Start off an awkward series of low-angle slabs down about 50 feet from Cracked Egg- the climb's two bolts are fairly obvious. Climb up runout features from below or traverse in from the left on shrinking chickenheads and clip the first bolt. A second bolt comes quickly with a few slab moves and soon you are looping an engorged chickenhead. A moderate move reaches the runnel proper and a ladder of edges and side-cracks bring you to a low-angle section of rock on the arete left of Leggo. Belay in cracks or use one of the giant horns. We considered a chain anchor- but apparently this is the first belay on the odd Low Brow girdle and it just didn't seem right. Continue up the crack above (somewhat wide), finish the last few clips of Leggo, or rap off a doomed tree 10 feet down from the belay. Climbing this originally roped solo (some aid) I thought this climb was much harder- a partnered ascent eased the rating.
Location
West end of The Egg- around the corner from Leggo, and down hill from Cracked Egg. The two bolts are fairly obvious.
Protection
Light rack.