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Routes in Army of Darkness Boulder

Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 578 total · 9/month
Shared By: ben jammin on Dec 6, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Edit]

Frankenspank is the obvious line up pockets and pinches facing E on the Monster Block boulder (see description below).

Sit start with a decent crimp. Move up and slightly left using pinches and some interesting pockets. Better holds are found after the first few moves. The crux comes right at you off the ground.

Location [Edit]

Frankenspank is actually located on the 'Monster Block Boulder' about 100 yds uphill from the Army of Darkness boulder. Since it only has one problem (the book says there are also two V4's but they look like choss so I'll let someone else add those, if they wish) I'm just going to add this under the AOD. This problem faces east and is the obvious chalked pockets under the overhang.

Protection [Edit]



Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
MIYG-- Did you start sitting matched on the 'good' crimp down and right? I tried it this way and it seemed much harder than v7. It seemed more natural (at the grade) to start with the left hand elsewhere (like in the low pocket out left or somewhere above the crimp). Agreed that the difficulty quickly eases up, but the start is HARD!

Care to share some beta/thoughts? Any insight you can give would be appreciated! Dec 14, 2012
ben jammin
Moab, UT
ben jammin   Moab, UT
I was starting sitting with right hand on the crimp. I haven't worked it to extensively though. Seems like it would go with a stab with the left from the pinch.

Also, nice work. I was planning on adding a bunch of these problems. Dec 15, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Originally, I tried it a bit that way as well. Right hand on the crimp, left hand on a weird, bad pinch above. Pulling off the ground and hitting the good pocket from there. I hit the pocket repeatedly but couldn't quite latch it, since it takes a fair amount of accuracy to actually stick it. That way certainly feels at least v7 and perhaps harder. Eventually I shifted to starting with the left hand in the low pocket and right hand on the crimp because I lost patience with the lack of accuracy on my original method. It's also arguable that those two holds are more 'obvious' starting points.

I was just hoping someone had some better clarity as to the 'official' starting holds since there's no real obvious starting point and all of the guidebook descriptions are quite vague.

Oh well, back to the original method, I guess. Dec 15, 2012
ben jammin
Moab, UT
ben jammin   Moab, UT
Well unless you can sit down with the left in the lower pocket I'm assuming the start is how it is described above. I always assume that the rating is sandbagged, as is the tradition of the area. Dec 16, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
I was indeed able to do it from a sit with the left in the pocket, right on the low edge/crimp. But, it's hard to say whether it felt v7 or easier. I'll go back to giving the alternative sit some goes as well and see how it feels, grade wise.

It's always a bit tough at Big Bend. While some of the high profile problems, like 'Hellbelly','Chaos', 'Circus Trick', etc. feel a bit sandbagged, I feel like most of the problems are pretty spot on for the grade. And there are several harder climbs that feel soft for the grade. Finding out the 'right' beta usually makes most of the Big Bend problems quite reasonable at the grade, though that process can often be frustrating and make things seem sandbagged!

We''ll have to climb together some time and compare notes! Dec 20, 2012
ben jammin
Moab, UT
ben jammin   Moab, UT
Interesting.. I'll have to take another look. I think your assessment of BB grades is a good one. I know I've had my frustrating moments working problems just to find a quick piece of beta and quickly put it all together. It would certainly be nice to climb with someone strong and figure out beta.

I'm wishing for POW this weekend in Telluride but after that, I'll be out there. Not many boulderer's in Moab so give me a shout if you head this way on a weekend. Dec 21, 2012
so i went up and found this boulder. not sure what the consenses is on the start. but im posting some pictures in hopes to get some clarity. I think the low left crimp would be crazy hard, I am only 5'7, a larger person might have an easier time. But it felt very hard trying to start off the left crimp. Apr 20, 2018

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