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Routes in S Crags

Airborn to New Time Zone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Berghaus Red T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Every Picture Tells a Story T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glenfiddich Regrets T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leaving America T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Milky Way, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 970 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross Andy Ross Jim Howe (var leads) 4th Dec 2012
Page Views: 120 total, 2/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Dec 6, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

A mountaineering style route up a previously unclimbed Reef peak. The three main pitches all are on good sandstone. The route name comes from the training camp activities the night before the climb.
P1) Start below the black wall (small cairn). Climb the wall on good holds for about 40', then go just left of a blind crack past a bolt that protects a couple of 5.7 moves to a good ledge and tree belay. 150' 5.7. (rap anchors about 20' to the right)
P2) 4th class up slabs into the amphitheater for about 300', then when below the obvious big corner scramble up left for a 100' to a good ledge below the main wall. Here the next pitch starts. Easy slab to the dark rock corners. Up the corners, past a bolt, then more steeply up the wall above past two more bolts to double anchors. 200' 5.7.
3) Scramble about 100' up to the right to below the final headwall. Straight up the center of the wall via broken cracks and slab to a great summit. Double anchors. 120' 5.6. Register in small cairn on summit.

Descent. Rap the route

Location

Located of the Crag S section of the Eastern Reef. From the road end at Two Finger Canyon an easy hike north for about 20 mins.Then scramble up the wash to the start . See Topo

Protection

Cams 1/2" to 3" .Two 60m ropes.

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