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Routes in Lone Pine Peak

Bastille Buttress - Bad Hombres T WI3 M4 Steep Snow
Bastille Buttress - Beckey Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Bastille Buttress - Papillon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Direct South Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0
Michael Strassman Memorial Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mountain Devil Dike T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
NE Ridge (full) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Winter Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Brad Wilson, Dulcinea Groff 2012
Page Views: 3,122 total · 44/month
Shared By: BradWilson on Dec 5, 2012
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details

Description

The Mountain Devil Dike starts after the second pitch of the Michael Strassman Memorial Route and climbs the dike straight up. The route includes difficult, varied, and sustained pitches, interesting holds and sequences, no hanging belays, and stunning views. I recommend edging shoes for the crux pitch. Anchors have been equipped with two stainless ring hangers.

Route Description

P1 (5.7) "Climb the dike up the pedestal angling up and right toward a bush then follow the ramp up and left. At the top of the pedestal (sling horn for pro) traverse left into a left-facing corner that angles up and right. From here traverse right into a smaller ramp and head out across the face to a discontinuous dike that leads to a mantle then a roof and a belay." (copied from MSMR page)

P2 (5.10) "Climb up and right passing 4 bolts then get into the right facing corner. Climb this until it ends and move up and left passing a bolt then angling right toward a prominent ledge." (copied from MSMR page)

P3 (5.10) Climb out left and clip the pin on MSMR, then climb flakes up and left and enjoy a few large holds. Balency climbing leads to exciting moves past the final bolt.

P4 (5.12+) Climb the dike to gear and a rest. A thin, hard, sequential sequence leads up to the crux move. From the hole climb right passing a couple bolts on 5.10 terrain.

P5 (5.11+) Classic. Climb the short 5.8 corner, and go up and left on the face via amazing holds (5.9R). (Do not climb too high onto the hollow-looking flake) Place a hand size cam at your feet with a 48" runner and commit to the 5.10+ moves up and right gaining another stance and hand size piece & 48" sling. Climb right to regain the dike which is bolt protected from here. Perfect golden scoops of granite engulf the dike and lead you to a crux mantle move. Continue via easier climbing to another crux. At the last bolt climb directly right through a scoop, then up to an obvious rail. Follow this to the anchors and a small but comfortable perch.

P6 (5.10+) Climb right off of the belay passing a bolt and into a groove. Climb the groove, find gear, and step right onto the face. Clip another bolt and figure out the sequence down & right, making your way into another groove corner. Climb the corner, sling some gear super long and slab up and right past a final bolt to the anchors.

Descent

Rappel the route with two 60M ropes. One MAY be able to rappel straight down to MSMR and rappel that route from the P6 anchor to avoid the traversing nature of P6, but I did not try this. Knot your ropes if you attempt this descent.

Location

Approach duration 2-3 hrs from the Tuttle Creek trail head. For a detailed description on how to get here see the MSMR page. I found the 2 springs located past the stone house to be quite reliable.

Protection

(2) blue tcu to C4#2, nuts optional
(8) draws
(4) 24" slings
(2) 48" slings
(2) 60m ropes

Photos

Nicely done, Brad! I've done the MSMR next door, and I can only assume this line is of similar quality, albeit substantially more difficult. Dec 6, 2012
Josh Janes    
In the video you call the crux 12- ...assuming that was a mistake? Is the 12+ slab or edging or something else? Jul 2, 2013
BradWilson
  5.12d
BradWilson  
  5.12d
Right, I think its 5.12+. Jul 5, 2013
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
I accidentally got on this route starting at P3 when trying to do MSMR. I somehow climbed right past the giant MSMR dike sticking 1 foot out of the wall and started up the Devil Dike.

P3 of Devil Dike went well enough, but P4 looked way hard! Glad it wasn't my lead, I sent my partner up for P4. Still thinking we were on MSMR, he got up about half way and decided to come down. I went up on top rope from his high point and had a look. We agreed that there was no way this was 10c, or even 5.11!

We bailed and rapped to the ground, which turned out to be a good thing. It was already cold and by the time we were out of the gully, the weather was getting bad. When we reached the stone house, the whole peak was obscured by rain and clouds. Like an idiot, I didn't bring a rain jacket that day. Had I not gotten off route, we'd have likely been epic-ing on descent in cold rain. So ironically, unknowingly getting on a 5.12 by mistake actually kept me from having an epic. Sep 24, 2018

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