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Routes in 05. Bovine Area

Bovine Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Limehouse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Love Burger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mad Cow Disease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Silverfish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tiers of Joy TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
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Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 268 total · 4/month
Shared By: P. Sully on Dec 4, 2012
Admins: Jay Shultis, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: Private Property - Access Sensitive Details


Climbs the steep, orange, tiered face through bulges.


start just right of Silverfish and left of Love Burger.


This is a top-rope route


Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
Seems like this is good enough that it deserves some hardware, any thoughts? Just as deserving as Limehouse IMO. Jan 3, 2013
Jonathan Spencer
Chattanooga, TN
Jonathan Spencer   Chattanooga, TN
I will help out if ya need it. Jan 3, 2013
P. Sully
P. Sully  
Back in the day a no-falls TR ascent was still considered real climbing. Jan 15, 2013
Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
I am by no means trying to flame this up, this is a serious discussion that needs to happen. Additional development will happen, as it always has, and we should have a plan. TR or gear only has never been the exclusive ethic. There is a long history of Bolts and top anchors being used as protection at Bozoo. Correct me if I am wrong Paul, there are many routes that you have FA'd as well as others that used bolts when the time is right. Top roping is not the same as leading, ground up is the way to go. Sport climbing is an acceptable way of climbing if the rock is void of good gear placements, it should be considered. Bozoo is not exclusive to any particular user group. On Bovine wall alone several of the routes have bolts and there are even anchors on Lime House. I may be way off base but I feel there is a bit of a double standard. My opinion is that if the route is quality and would add to the overall appeal of the crag then we should be open to all kinds of routes as deemed necessary by the rock. There is some in-fill that can still be done and additional route development of all kinds at the downstream crags. The key here is to be conscious of the local ethic and work with all user groups to whatever extent possible. The myriad of gear available these days makes placing gear even better/easier than 'back in the day.'

My Take:
1. All trad whenever possible.
2. Mixed to protect against R or X rated climbs. (Ex. Lime House, Bovine Crack, a dozen or so various routes with a random bolt on them)
3. Sport when 80% or more of the climb will not take gear or the rock is good to climb but suspect to fracture where it will take gear. (examples: White Trash, Ships Bow, Iceberg routes, Dr. No)
4. Anchors TBD by community or FA party, leaning towards topping out for additional climbing and low impact where easy to anchor locations can be found at the top of the cliff. Examples of anchors: places where briars, loose soil/rock or brush make topping out nearly impossible; heavily used climbs or areas without walk-offs to protect trees (White Wall and Iceberg, etc)

I will move this to a forum, because it needs to be addressed formally by the community. May 14, 2014
P. Sully
P. Sully  
I pretty much agree with you on your Take.

I think you misinterpreted my comment above if the think there is a double standard, because I more or less agree with everything you said.

The bigger issue with this area to me has always been future access. The main area cliffs are on private land. I would be very selective and careful about what new hardware is added to these cliffs.

Believe me, if there are a lot of new bolted routes put in; and a guide made, it will change this little crag forever; and could easily get the private rock shut down.

The lower big caves & cliffline; I think there is more opportunity down there for new routes; even great ones. It would be worth checking exactly what property these are on. May 18, 2014
Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
Sounds good, trad/mixed is the way to go and pure bolted lines will be rare at Bozoo, especially on the low end. That alone should prevent the area from blowing up. Bubba City should be our example of exactly what not to do (bolted cracks and retro-bolted mixed lines, etc). Also, keep in mind that the user area is small and the location is VERY remote. Most people will go to the New no matter what we do at Bozoo. This always has and will help us keep our local crag local. No printed guide will ever be more widely disseminated than this awesome online databse. Bottom line is I completely agree, if we overbolt, our usergroup will change and that is not what we desire. I personally want a nice local crag where we can bring friends and family to teach them the basics of Trad, Anchors, TR, sport and aid. There is no better place to practice than at a good well managed and remote lcoal crag! May 21, 2014

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