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Routes in Meadow Rock aka Cougar Cliff

Dark, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shade Line T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Glenn Schuler
Page Views: 552 total, 9/month
Shared By: Dan G0D5H411 on Dec 3, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Road & nearby private property Details

Description

Kudos to the first ascentionist for finding this gem! The Dark climbs the obvious crack that jogs up and left through the STEEP headwall. Start in the left-facing corner, and make a reachy traverse left on brilliantly sculpted granite to enter the crack proper. Catch your breath since this is probably the last time you will have your feet directly below you for the rest of the climb. Employ all your crack and face climbing skills as you fight off a growing pump in a race to the anchors.

Location

This is the obvious crack that splits the overhanging north face of Meadow Rock. Start in the left-facing corner that lies 8 feet to the right of the crack (the direct start may be doable but is very thin and unprotected).

Protection

Large nuts and a single rack of cams from fingers to hands. 2 bolt anchor with chains.

Photos

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