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Routes in Soldiers Pass

Alladin's Turbin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tasmanian Devil T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kole DeCou, Jake Dayley, Manny Rangel
Page Views: 707 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jake Dayley on Dec 2, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Pitch 1: 5.8, 70 feet. Face climb up to the limestone band, boulder up it and continue up into a 5.8 chimney system which spits you out onto the shoulder of the spire. Belay off tree or large boulder.

Pitch 2: 5.6, 30 feet. Walk/scramble up to the base of the obvious summit slab. Climb 20 feet up the unprotected 5.6 slab to the summit. Belay off bolts.

This route has some bad rock on it but it's easy to avoid.

Location

The approach is one hour from the Soldiers Pass TH or 40 minutes if you have a 4WD.

From Soldiers Pass TH hike north out of the parking lot on on the jeep road, staying straight at all junctions, for about 1 mile. Or if you have a high clearance vehicle just drive to the end of the road (my old pickup makes it just fine). Leave the road and get on the soldiers pass trail. Follow it north up the hill for 15-20 mins.

Just before the pass there is a slick rock area strewn with black rocks/debris. Leave the trail here and head up and left across the slick rock towards a tree with multiple large low branches. A faint trail takes off from here.

Follow this trail for about five minutes until it ends in a large slick rock area that runs to the west. Looking west from here you see a large butte formation Alladin's Turbin is the short stubby spire to the left (SW).

For Alladin's Turbin hike across the slickrock and bear left on a faint trail that traverses over the top of a gully. Then pick your way to the spire. The route is on the SW side just below the notch.

Protection

Standard rack.

The rappel is 100+ feet, a 60 meter rope will BARELY make it

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