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Routes in Cowboy Wall

Blood Drive S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chief of Scouts S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Universal Donor S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mark Hermann
Page Views: 369 total, 6/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Dec 2, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

This route features an OK start to a really fun couple of moves over a bulge at 3/4 height and a easier but still engaging topout. I busted an air Jordan slam dunk-style dyno off a big ledge to a massive letterbox slot in a horizontal crack, though ample footholds in the roof mean shorties have a way out too. Very enjoyable climbing and quite a memorable crux move (at least the way I did it).

A tall person (or one with an awesome ape index) would probably have a laughably easy time with this crux.

Historical reference- Buffalo Bill Cody was chief of scouts for the 3rd calvary in the late 1860s. So there ya go.

Location

Basically in the middle of the Cowboy Wall. Begins just left of Cigar Store Indian, initially trending left away from the smooth featureless reddish stripe. It tackles the biggest part of the bulge above.

Protection

7 bolts, 2-bolt clip & lower sport anchor.

Photos

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Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
Alaric Miller added Cigar Store Indian and Space Wrangler in 1994 or 5. They are between the arete climb Wild West Show and Chief of Scouts. In fact most of the second tier routes on the Cowboy Wall got added around that time over the course of two days, including Blood Drive (retro bolt), Shootin Blanks, Madcap Cowboy and Best Shot in the West Dec 17, 2015
Mees
Iowa
Mees   Iowa
yeah that sounds correct Mike, just couldn't remember the name. The arete move to the churt I still remember. When did cigar store Indian go in? Oct 29, 2015
Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
Based on the Aune guide the arete above the block is called The Wild West Show. As I remember it the crux is moving to one of those hamburger-like churt pieces while wrestling the arete. This I believe is the route Todd and Scott put up.

Chief of Scouts starts just left of Cigar Store Indian and trends left initially for some tough face climbing, though the crux is going through the bulge at the end. FA Mark Herman I believe. Oct 28, 2015
Mees
Iowa
Mees   Iowa
OK maybe Rick and I got it wrong but I thought there was another route to the right of chief of scouts that you are talking about Todd. Don't recall Chief of Scouts being an arete climb. Believe you are talking about the right route referred to in the description not the left Oct 14, 2015
FA Todd Cozzens, Scott Carson 1988. This route follows the arete above the massive block. Oct 9, 2015
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Thanks for the info Mees. I like things to be accurate when I add them too, which is why I originally emailed Mike Snyder about the FA info since the guidebook lacks it. I do think it matters & thanks for contributing the correct info.

I very much appreciate the contributions of all the of the crew who established these routes and thank them for their efforts! I had a great time climbing in the canyon once things cooled off this past fall. It fills a nice niche for cold-weather sport climbing in a gorgeous setting. Dec 26, 2012
Mees
Iowa
Mees   Iowa
100% certain, talked to Rick for confirmation, not that it really matters but thought as long as you are adding info here, might as well be accurate. Mark really did a great job putting up routes in the early days of development at the BB. Not sure what he is up to these days, hope he is well and thank him for his excellent contribution bitd. Dec 3, 2012
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Are you sure about that? I asked Mike Snyder, who told me Rick Aune did the FA, originally on gear nonetheless, and retroed it after other sport routes went in on the wall. Dec 3, 2012
Mees
Iowa
Mees   Iowa
FA Mark Hermann Dec 3, 2012