The North Buttress
Avg: 2 from 4 votes
Routes in The North Ridge (of Dinosaur Mountain).
|Type:||Trad, 75 ft|
|FA:||M. Salazar, T. Bubb (?), 12/1/12|
|Page Views:||63 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Dec 2, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Closed for Raptors Feb 1- Aug 1, annually Details
See OSMP closures, annually. Closes as for Skunk Canyon Ridge 3/4 and The Dreadnaught.
DescriptionThis is a climb that is more difficult and engaging than it looks.
Great movement outweighs a short section of poor rock before the crux.
Climb up a 10 meter section of right-facing flake (5.8, cams from small to 0.75) to the top, and move left as it runs out onto a ledge (5.8). Work up and left across the ledge on moderate climbing (5.6, 4" piece optional) to just below a roof.
Place some hand sized cams below the roof (red & yellow Camalots + long slings), and get ready for the crux. There was a bit of fixed bail gear (pink tricam + knotted webbing) here that was aged to the point of little worth. The tricam remains as it was corroded in: do not trust it.
Start cranking through the roof on tight sharp jams with really cool movement up and over the lip (5.10+) and get established on high feet up over the roof. Although difficult, it is ideal to have placed a small cam or stopper out just left of the moves here.
Rest up and then head up and left through the diagonal crack to the ridge line (5.10 with blind/difficult placements) and up onto the East Face slab. Go 20' South on the slab to a tree with a red sling to belay. You can back up the tree with a small cam.
To descend, rap from the tree.