Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Round Valley Draw

Heart of Sandstone T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Second Thoughts T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0-1
Testing T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft
FA: Zac Warren, Roy Suggett, and Phyllis Suggett
Page Views: 599 total, 10/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Nov 29, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Just past the last of three bolts, the crux is getting into the main crack on the face to the right. Then hang on for a LONG ride!

Location

Just right of Second Thoughts and right of an offwidth you start in but move right and out of quickly to the obvious line on the right of an attached pillar on the face.

Protection

Bring every cam you can beg, borrow, or steal - .5s to a couple of 4s. Clip the first bolt with a quick draw, the second with a shoulder length runner, and the third with a long runner. This keeps the rope in a straighter line and also out of the short crack right and between bolts 2 and 3(see beta topo). Gear most likely is not needed between bolt 2 and 3. If you think you do, then you might want to back off right then and there! Bolt anchor with webbing. TWO Ropes!

Photos

BSU_Zac
 
BSU_Zac  
 
This is a great line that is much longer than it appears from the ground. After the last bolt, is an amazing no-hands traverse that will leave your rear clamped tighter than the tips wide crack you are traversing toward. Enjoy the ever-widening, although not widening fast enough, crack to the anchors. Plug gear whenever you can because the rock is soft and she will spit you out faster than you can fall. And listen to Roy's advice, if you feel you need gear for the bottom section just stay off the route. The bottom is only 5.8ish and Tropic S&R is busy enough plucking stranded German women off of scree slopes without having to come save you. Jan 2, 2013