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Carnival

5.10d, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 102 votes
FA: Dave Phillips
Texas > Austin Area > Reimer's Ranch… > Carnival Wall

Description

Really fun route. The start is pretty much 5.8 until you hit the fun crimps when you start working up from the completion of the traverse.

Beta for the crux:  

Right hand to either sloper or 2 finger pocket, left hand far left to crimp, right hand to crimp sidepull above left hand, stand up to high left jug. More or less. Some of my friends do it slightly differently. It's all in the feet.

Location

Shares a start with Gypsy Wall's first route, Living on The Edge.

Protection

6 bolts with sport clip anchors. Also has two bolts behind the belay station to protect the belayer because the station is on a cliff and a climber fall might pull the belayer off.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Belay station anchors in blue. Carnival, Living on the Edge, and Love Potion No. 9 share the left belay station and first couple of bolts. Gypsy Rock uses the right belay station.
[Hide Photo] Belay station anchors in blue. Carnival, Living on the Edge, and Love Potion No. 9 share the left belay station and first couple of bolts. Gypsy Rock uses the right belay station.
Madison clipping anchors
[Hide Photo] Madison clipping anchors
Just before the crux on Carnival.
[Hide Photo] Just before the crux on Carnival.
About to climb up into cave section, then traverse left into the start of the crux.
[Hide Photo] About to climb up into cave section, then traverse left into the start of the crux.
Carnival beta
[Hide Photo] Carnival beta
Going for a ride!
[Hide Photo] Going for a ride!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Logan Jung
San Antonio
[Hide Comment] Does anyone have a video or beta of this route? I get stuck at the crux. Mildly disappointing because I feel like I'm either not tall enough or I'm just flat out missing something. In the same session I was able to flash 'Schlitz My Liquor' on Cheap Beer Wall so I believe I'm just missing something obvious. Thanks! May 10, 2020
Tom Sherman
Austin, TX
[Hide Comment] I felt pretty stretched out, 6-2. If I remember, I clipped off a 1-1/2 finger polished thing high and right. I think I bumped one or two hands to not so great holds above that until getting the heel way left and cranking. Once you get it its gravy.... Wait doesn't it always go like that? Jul 13, 2020