Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches
FA: Jeff Widen, Tony Valdes, 1986. FFA: John Rosholt, 1994.
Page Views: 1,002 total · 7/month
Shared By: jakobi on Nov 28, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The route starts as hands/wide hands climbing past an old fixed hex. The angle kicks back to slightly overhanging wide hands for 15 ft through a bulge to a stance. From the stance a short section of easy offwidth leads to a sloping ledge and a set of bolted anchors. It seems the original ascent tension traversed to the right to gain a thin hands splitter, we climbed the crack straight off the ledge which is perfect hands for a ways before eventually pinching down to stacks before the next anchor.

Location Suggest change

On the north side of the valley, Song of the Canyon Wren is the obvious splitter crack that pinches shut at a ledge, with another crack opening up to the right at it's terminus. Anchors are visible from the road.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles from .75-4 Camalots with extra 2's and 3's. If climbing the right crack take some extra .75 and 1's. A couple of alpine draws.