PRINT: Rock Climb Theater Of Pain, 3. Piedmont Region

Theater Of Pain

5.13a, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 3.9 from 15 votes
FA: Seth Tart?
N Carolina > 3. Piedmont Region > Cooks Wall > Cookbook > Emla area

Description

This is an amazing stretch of North Carolina overhang with multiple cruxes and sustained climbing. The line starts pretty much in the center of the wall. Start on good edges that lead to a technical bulge at the second bolt. The climbing is not harder than 5.10 between the second and third bolt, however it would not be wise to fall between them.

Fire through the initial overhanging crux and then try to keep it together through jugs, bad feet and some big moves. Once at the fixed nut, stay left for some final fun moves protecting the anchors! Classic line!

Location

Second route from the right of the cook book

Protection

Bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Right side of Emla wall

Seth Tart eyeballing the 2nd crux Theatre of Pain<br>
Photo by Chris Huffine

Seth Tart eyeballing the 2nd crux Theatre of Pain Photo by Chris Huffine

https://vimeo.com/154429432<br>
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Theater of Pain is a magnificent route and one of the marquee lines of Cooks Wall. Originally Theater was a mixed 13bR route which made it notorious back in the 90's as one of the only mixed 13's in NC. A runout down low and a few pieces of strenuous to place gear in the middle and at the top made the line physically taxing and unnerving. As route popularity grew, the nut protecting the top crux became accepted as fixed gear and safety inspired Seth to reequip it as primarily a sport line.<br>
Today only the fixed nuts protecting the top crux remain as a reminder of this historical line's original mystique.<br>
Today only the fixed nuts protecting the top crux remain as a reflection of this wonderful lines original mystique.

https://vimeo.com/154429432 Theater of Pain is a magnificent route and one of the marquee lines of Cooks Wall. Originally Theater was a mixed 13bR route which made it notorious back in the 90's…

Myself working the route

Bri flashing on an awesome bluebird day

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Austin Goff
Winston-Salem, NC

5.13a

SOFT. Probably no move harder than v4 or v5. Apr 7, 2015

Robert Fogle
Juneau, AK

5.13b

The line climbs very differently according to staying direct on the bolt line or moving off of it slightly to a few jugs. Grade aside it's a wonderful line. Apr 8, 2015

Eric Middleton
Charlotte, NC

Adam Drain getting a run for his endurance right below the anchors of Theater of Pain!

May 25, 2015

S Tart

After some comments on Facebook earlier in the year about the 90’s placed bolts on Theatre, I called a friend at Climb Tech and they sent enough stainless glue-in wave bolts and epoxy for a complete upgrade. The rusty bolts proved to still be strong as hell with linear force from a hammer being barely enough to break them after repeated blows but you can’t go wrong with new hardwear. So with the help of Dennis Buice and Shelley Carter this gorgeous line is now revitalized and ready to go from top to bottom.

When I originally climbed Theatre as a mixed route in the 90’s, it climbed much more to the left where the gear to protect the somewhat long falls were located, which meant hanging out on steeper terrain to fiddle in a piece before you pumped out. Now, as a sport route, the path of least resistance takes a nicer, smoother, slightly tamer line out right that is much more aesthetically pleasing and probably weighs in around 12d/13a depending on your strengths and weaknesses. Difficulty aside, this is one of the best single pitch routes of its grade in the state. May 3, 2021

Tyler KC
Fayetteville AR/WV/NC

5.13a

This route would go toe to toe w/ Apollo at Summersville.
Finish can squirrel out right or go direct past the fixed nut for some extra sting. Realistically doesn’t change the grade though.
Amazing! Apr 9, 2022