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Routes in First Pew

Altar Boy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elmo Amber Alert T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Features on a Slabscape T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Georgia Style T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Loose Horn T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
New York Reload TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Southern Hospitality T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unknown 2 TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 4 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: Estes Park locals, equipped by Joe Vallone & friend
Page Views: 477 total, 8/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Nov 27, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Details

Description

This is the third from the left of the 4 sport climbs put in late 2012 on the far right side of the 1st Pew. It ascends a small roof to a better-than-it-looks face above that gets you dancing.

Carefully climb up & clip the 1st bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). There is a hollow flake left of the bolt. Reach up to the jug & clip bolt 2 (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). High step left and rock on. Move onto the delightful face with nice edges. Weave your way up on small but positive edges. Find a crux around the 6th bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13) where you must trust your feet (your right fingertips are loathe to crank on that toothy hold). After the 7th bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13), you may find slightly bigger holds to the left. Finish at the 2 bolt Fixe ring anchors (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13).

Rappel 60' or continue up to Georgia Style.

These bolts sport 3 different colored hangers, red, gray, and black, because those were the ones that came out of the bag next.

Joe wrote that he and his friend equipped the route, gave a friend the opportunity for the FA, and his friend really didn't seem to care about the name, but "Father's Sauce" was getting thrown around quite a bit, since it fit with the other names used for the neighboring routes.

Given the recent bolt chopping, this is a TR at best.

Location

This is the 3rd from the left of the 4 sport climbs on the far right side of the 1st Pew.

Protection

7 bolts (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13), 2 bolt anchor (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13).

Photos

Jason Ball
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jason Ball   Salt Lake City, Utah
With all that stuff about the bolts being removed, did they actually pull them and not replace them? Is this still a sport climb? Apr 2, 2014
The gang loved this 5.10 route, and keeping with current events, I think it's named "New York Reload". Feb 25, 2013
justin dubois
Estes Park
justin dubois   Estes Park
I always give my routes rave reviews, too. Dec 4, 2012