Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Estes Park locals, equipped by Joe Vallone & friend
Page Views: 670 total · 8/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Nov 27, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Details

Description

This is the leftmost of the 4 sport climbs put in late 2012 on the far right side of the 1st Pew. It ascends a blunt arete just left of a crack/shallow dihedral.

Face climb up on good edges. After the 3rd bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13), place a cam or two in the crack. You can move slightly right with your feet (probably easier) or face climb on the left (probably harder) to gain some bigger knobs again. Continue up to a 2 bolt anchor (1 Fixe ring anchor and 1 Fixe hanger with a link (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13)).

Rappel 60' or continue up to Georgia Style.

Joe writes that "Kim Jong Ill" is not the name given to this route.

Given the recent bolt chopping, this route probably is now 5.7 R and appears to have no anchor.

Location

This is the leftmost of the 4 bolted lines on the far right side of the 1st Pew.

Protection

5 bolts (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13), red and/or green Alien, 2 bolt anchor (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13).

Photos