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Routes in First Pew

Altar Boy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elmo Amber Alert T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Features on a Slabscape T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Georgia Style T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Loose Horn T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
New York Reload TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Southern Hospitality T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unknown 2 TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 4 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Estes Park locals, equipped by Joe Vallone & friend
Page Views: 516 total, 8/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Nov 27, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Details

Description

This is the leftmost of the 4 sport climbs put in late 2012 on the far right side of the 1st Pew. It ascends a blunt arete just left of a crack/shallow dihedral.

Face climb up on good edges. After the 3rd bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13), place a cam or two in the crack. You can move slightly right with your feet (probably easier) or face climb on the left (probably harder) to gain some bigger knobs again. Continue up to a 2 bolt anchor (1 Fixe ring anchor and 1 Fixe hanger with a link (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13)).

Rappel 60' or continue up to Georgia Style.

Joe writes that "Kim Jong Ill" is not the name given to this route.

Given the recent bolt chopping, this route probably is now 5.7 R and appears to have no anchor.

Location

This is the leftmost of the 4 bolted lines on the far right side of the 1st Pew.

Protection

5 bolts (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13), red and/or green Alien, 2 bolt anchor (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13).

Photos

I believe Little Joe called this route "Elmo Amber Alert". Feb 25, 2013
justin dubois
Estes Park
5.7
justin dubois   Estes Park
5.7
This route is called Kim Jong Ill, 5.7. Dec 4, 2012