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Routes in Stovepipe

Dial A Muffin S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Doughboy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Flyboy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Footnotes S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sine Wave S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tangent S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Eric Scully
Page Views: 591 total · 8/month
Shared By: Alex McIntyre on Nov 27, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

A fun and extremely bouldery climb. A hard, shouldery boulder problem off the ground leads to an obviously chipped hold and a few pulls over the first bulge. A second (crux) boulder problem is encountered, with a couple options. The FAist went a little left to the pod in the quartz band and pulled some super thuggy, long moves; another method goes a bit right, almost to the arete, then back toward the center. The jug-laden left arete is off. After the crux, trend up and left up a flake past one more bolt to the chains.

Mico hit the nail on the head when he said "the bottom and middle are really, really hard, and the end isn't easy." There aren't any particularly easy moves on this one until the very end.

Location

The only climb on the narrow NE face of Stovepipe, left of the Flyboys arete. This is the side facing towards New Wave Wall.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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