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Routes in Monitor Wall Area

Frogs Hair S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monitor, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monkey See Monkey Do S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Praying Mantis, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Snake Skin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Drew Spaulding, Justin Day, Jean Redle etc. Dec. '04
Page Views: 273 total, 4/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Nov 27, 2012
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

This route also starts on the first 2 pitches of "The Monitor" up into the cave...

Pitch 1-Start up the line of Titanium bolts, stemming and pulling through the steep crux-5.10d above. 90' to the anchor.

Pitch 2-Continue 4th class into the cave entrance and scramble up the tunnel to the huge cave above. Instead of turning left in the cave toward "The Monitor", turn up and right to find 2 large windows in a beautiful, sunlit cave hang... The Praying Mantis is the window on the right and Monkey See Monkey Do is the window on the left with a fixed rope to descend to the starting anchor.

Pitch 3-After descending the fixed line to the anchor below... Step out right on the steep, beautifully orange pocketed face for 3 bolts. Climb the featured slab above and up to another steep pocketed crux before gaining the "Mountaineers Traverse"(rightward trending ledge/corner system). Continue up the "M.T." to the bolted belay on the spacious ledge at it's top. (120'-5.10c)

Pitch 4-Climb the titanium line of bolts heading up and left! One steep, overhanging boulder problem after another brings you up to the "tufa traverse". Stem out to the tufa and tip toe easily around left to the anchor. (100'-5.10d-20' overhanging)

Pitch 5- climb straight up the awesomely featured orange streak for 90' up to the final anchor in the cave hole!(5.10a)

Location

From the beach, walk up the road past the Cat Wall. Step up the trail on the left to the Lost Wall, and turn to the left along the cliff to the base of The Monitor Wall...
For the most direct descent... Swing left off the top anchor, down to the "Praying Mantis" stalactite pillar belay. By back-clipping that entire route, one 60 meter rope will work for the descent! 5 rappels bring you right back to where you started! M.S.M.D. can also be backclipped with one 60 meter rope, but it's much more involved.... BE CAREFUL!!!

Protection

This route is is fully equipped with Ti-bolts and some threads. Very safe, comfortable belays...

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