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Routes in The Golden Wall

Blobber T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Candlepin Route S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirty Thieving Loran T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End of the World Plan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finger Lickin Good Yall S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frequent Flyer T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hair of the Dog T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Live Rust S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Penetration T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pin Me Up Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pocket Poachers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Tail Spin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Toga T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: James Dickson & Jonathan Garlough
Page Views: 74 total · 1/month
Shared By: chinos on Nov 27, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

You & This Route

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Start 10’ right of Finger Lickin Good Yall. Climb the featured slab with tricky pro to a bolt. Continue up the pockets to a stance with gear in a small shallow left facing corner near the top with gear. Continue up to a ring anchor on top. 40’


Slab at the Golden Wall


Standard rack, 1 bolt, ring anchor


Rob Albert
Rob Albert  
you can get good gear (nuts) out to the far left, not too far above the bolt. I didn't see much below the bolt, however! fun route, just keep a cool head! Aug 21, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
I believe that once you can get pro in above the bolt the serious climbing is over.
While TR-ing it today (8/18/15) I broke a knobby hold off while standing on it; the hold was about 8-10 ft above, and slightly left of, the bolt, I lowered down a bit and re-climbed the sequence, so I don't think it seriously affected the rating although now when you're in that position you're standing on a smear rather than a real 'hold'. Aug 18, 2015
i recall getting another piece up higher above the bolt. it would be a bit spicey without it! Aug 17, 2014
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Nothing too tricky about the lower pro. as long as you trust an's the non-existent pro for the 20-25ft above the bolt that "makes it 'interesting'". We're not too sure of the ratings of this vs. it's left hand neighbor, but felt "End of World" was a full grade harder than "Finger Licken". Oct 11, 2013

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