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Routes in The Golden Wall

Blobber T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Candlepin Route S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirty Thieving Loran T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End of the World Plan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finger Lickin Good Yall S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frequent Flyer T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hair of the Dog T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Live Rust S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Penetration T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pin Me Up Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pocket Poachers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Tail Spin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Toga T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: James Dickson & Jonathan Garlough
Page Views: 92 total · 1/month
Shared By: chinos on Nov 27, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Start 10’ right of Finger Lickin Good Yall. Climb the featured slab with tricky pro to a bolt. Continue up the pockets to a stance with gear in a small shallow left facing corner near the top with gear. Continue up to a ring anchor on top. 40’


Slab at the Golden Wall


Standard rack, 1 bolt, ring anchor


Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Nothing too tricky about the lower pro. as long as you trust an's the non-existent pro for the 20-25ft above the bolt that "makes it 'interesting'". We're not too sure of the ratings of this vs. it's left hand neighbor, but felt "End of World" was a full grade harder than "Finger Licken". Oct 11, 2013
i recall getting another piece up higher above the bolt. it would be a bit spicey without it! Aug 17, 2014
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
I believe that once you can get pro in above the bolt the serious climbing is over.
While TR-ing it today (8/18/15) I broke a knobby hold off while standing on it; the hold was about 8-10 ft above, and slightly left of, the bolt, I lowered down a bit and re-climbed the sequence, so I don't think it seriously affected the rating although now when you're in that position you're standing on a smear rather than a real 'hold'. Aug 18, 2015
Rob Albert
Rob Albert  
you can get good gear (nuts) out to the far left, not too far above the bolt. I didn't see much below the bolt, however! fun route, just keep a cool head! Aug 21, 2016

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