Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: some dudes
Page Views: 1,259 total · 16/month
Shared By: Stevie Nacho on Nov 25, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is the first route protected entirely with glue in's in Little Cottonwood Canyon. This route is also at the top of the gulley to the west of Lizard Head Buttress and directly below "The Gills." This route is left of "Fish For Brains" and about 30 feet above the trees. You need to scramble fifth class cracks to get to the base of this route. You will recognize this as a clean slab with glue in protection. Don't mistake this its a glue-in sporty 5.12 neighbor to the east. There is one fixed piton on this route. The crux of this great pitch is avoiding hucking your carcass into the wide crack to the left instead of staying on the slab and charging for the anchors.

Location

At the top of the gulley below the fin

Protection

All Draws, one rope.

Photos

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Stevie Nacho
Utah
  5.10a
Stevie Nacho   Utah
  5.10a
Location photos to come Nov 25, 2012
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
You can rap to the top of it when getting off The Wave Of Mutilation ( w/ 70m ) as a fun bonus pitch. Oct 13, 2017