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Routes in The V Buttress

Crabnebula T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triplet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Working Man's Lament T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 240 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Zeb Jakub, Chris Magness, Dave Weston, 9/12
Page Views: 419 total, 7/month
Shared By: chris magness on Nov 25, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This line generally follows a dike just right of FOF’s hand crack, is very well protected, and is a good line for a 5.10 leader to push their ability.

It is possible to climb the meat of Crabnebula in one 170’ marathon pitch to a two bolt anchor, then scramble to the rappel tree. Pitching it out allows for better communication in cruxy areas:

P1: A sustained pitch. Make a committing move off the belay to a bolt up and left. Using holds on the arête, follow bolts around a bulge to a horizontal (pin), just right of FOF’s hand crack. Pull another bulge and follow bolts and a dike to a stance on the left (same as FOF). Build a gear anchor. (5.11 a/b) 120’

P2: Follow bolts straight up the slab until the angle eases. Belay at a two bolt anchor or continue up to the tree (5.10b) 100’

Location

Begin at a small stance 200’ below the access ledge.

Protection

Bring a few medium sized cams and stoppers for a gear anchor. Many draws, including extendables.

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